Countrystride

Countrystride #110: Eliza Lynn Linton and The Lake Country

...in which we visit Crosthwaite to shine a light on one of Lakeland's most neglected historic figures – remarkable Eliza Lynn Linton, the first female salaried journalist in England. In the company of author Philippa Harrison, Keswick Museum curator Nicola Lawson and academic Sue Wilkinson, we learn about Eliza's traumatic childhood and the self-education that allowed her to escape the family home and embark on a writing career among the literary elite of her day. Reflecting on the passionate attachments Eliza formed with both men and women, we turn to Eliza's beautiful The Lake Country, a 'love book' to Cumbria that inspired Alfred Wainwright, and which Rawnsley thought would never be bettered. As we make our way to the overgrown Lynn family grave, we consider the contradictions of a contrary life; of Eliza's complex views on sexuality; of the great U-turn that saw her abandon her one-time progressive feminist ideals; and of the curious fact that this once infamous writer – and her superlative guidebook – are now barely acknowledged, even in the margins of Cumbrian history.

• Philippa's book, A Mountain Republic: Crosthwaite Parish and the Eighteen Men, can be found at all local bookshops.
• Sue can be found on Twitter at https://twitter.com/sue_wilkinson
• For more on Keswick Museum see https://keswickmuseum.org.uk

Countrystride #109: Aira Force - Lakeland pleasure ground

...in which we take a timeless tour of Aira Force – one of Lakeland's enduring honeypots – to uncover a history that takes in Victorian tourists, Colonial tree collectors and Baronial money and power. Treading paths trod for generations, we set out from the Pinetum glade in the company of National Trust Cultural Heritage Curator Harvey Wilkinson and consider Aira Force's early days, when oaks dominated the gorge and deer swept the fells. Entering woodland, we discuss the one-time estate's transition to pleasure ground in the age of the nouveau riche Merchant Princes of northern England. With diversions to talk Potter, politics and poetry, we reach the mighty Force itself, where we consider the sublime power that still draws crowds in their hundred-thousand, and the management challenges that face the Trust in an era of heavy footfall and increasingly extreme weather.

 

• For more details on Aira Force and Gowbarrow Park, see ationaltrust.org.uk/visit/lake-district/aira-force-and-gowbarrow-park

Countrystride #108: To the Lakes! The early days of tourism

...in which we journey back 200 years to the early days of Lake District tourism in the company of Jeff Cowton MBE, principal curator at Wordsworth Grasmere. Tracing the footsteps of the first well-to-do visitors, we ascend the pastures of Latrigg, midway between the perennial honeypot of Keswick and long-climbed slopes of Skiddaw. As we walk, we consider tourism's roots in the continental Grand Tour, and the events that shifted 'strangers'' eyes to the-once 'frightful' backwaters of Cumbria. Influenced by concepts like 'the sublime' and 'the picturesque', we note key figures in the development of both tourism and the aesthetic appreciation of landscape, from Jean-Jacques Rousseau to Father Thomas West. Arriving at one of Lakeland's great viewpoints, we reflect on the characters that embraced the early tourist boom, including polymath eccentric Peter Crosthwaite and co-founder of Derwent Water's remarkable regatta, Joseph Pocklington, before advancing in time to the arrival of Wordsworth, Coleridge... and the railways.

 

• For more about the early days of tourism in the Lake District, the ‘To the Lakes!’ exhibition at Wordsworth Grasmere runs for the remainder of 2023 and through much of 2024.
• Wordsworth Grasmere is also hosting two events that celebrate the journeys of early tourists, specifically: Ann Radcliffe's Ascent of Skiddaw, 1794 – Thursday 28 September 2023 and Historical Meal and Walk – Saturday 9 September 2023 that recreates the experience of a 1792 tourist with a historical meal and guided walk up Helm Crag.
• For more information see: wordsworth.org.uk/blog/events/to-the-lakes-historical-meal-and-walk/

Countrystride #107: Tales from Little Langdale

...in which we stride out from Fell Foot Farm at the foot of Wrynose Pass to explore the upper reaches of Little Langdale with National Trust Archaeologist Jamie Lund. Opening with a brief history of the valley, we consider its strategic importance in the heart of the Lakes, and the historic route – used by the Romans onwards – that draws down to Fell Foot, a one-time inn. Noting the remarkable Norse 'Ting Mound' behind the farm, we learn about the enclosed dale-bottom common, so valuable that it was never built upon. Passing the beck – canalised in medieval times then re-channelled in the 1800s – we ascend Greenburn to one of the UK's best preserved relic copper mines, where we talk prospecting, pollution and power. Hearing about the 'Nick Stick Seat' – where rural workers sat for a day's labour – we close by reflecting on the future of a remarkable valley.

Countrystride #106: The lichens of Borrowdale

...in which we take a deep dive into the miniature world of lichens with Cumbria Lichens & Bryophytes expert Pete Martin. Embarking from the car park at Seatoller – and not wandering much further - we ask what a lichen is (a question not easily answered) and why lichens matter. Wandering up-dale towards Seathwaite, we stop at trees and walls to encounter five of the county's most recognisable lichens and observe a remarkable world of elf ears, maps, jam tarts and wine gums. Deep in the Borrowdale rainforest we consider the expansive 'second skin' lichen and bryophyte ecosystems that form on older pollarded trees, and the key role lichens play in fixing both carbon and nitrogen. Taking a long view of land use in the valley, our journey ends at the famous Borrowdale Yews, where we learn why Wordsworth's 'Fraternal Four' were never four at all, and why, in ecology, things are often more complex than they first seem.

• You can find Pete on Twitter twitter.com/onLoughrigg
• The Cumbria Lichen & Bryophyte Group can be found at bumbrialichensbryophytes.org.uk

Countrystride #105: The Old Man and the slate

...in which we are joined by industrial archeologist supremo Mark Hatton to talk all things slate as we ascend and then tunnel deep into the fellside of The Old Man of Coniston. Picking through the abandoned remains of old working floors and tips, we learn about the long history of slate quarrying in the Lake District – an industry spread over 200 sites that yielded a range of highly-prized stone. Discussing how slate is formed, we make our way to the powerhouse, smithy and working floor of the Old Man workings, where millions of tonnes of stone were shaped into prized roofing slate by generations of miners. As we wander, we hear about the likely Norman origins of the industry; the revolution wrought by compressed air; the perils of journeying home in the snow; and the Sunday-morning miracles that collapsed caverns – and saved lives.

 

***

It would be remiss not to note that we recorded underground in the company of an experienced guide, and kitted with helmets and torches. Exploring these workings is immensely enjoyable - in the right company and with the right kit. In all cases, leave the workings as you found them. ***

Countrystride #104: Eskdale - Living the Fisherground dream

..in which we don the Countrystride shorts for a balmy trip west into sylvan Eskdale to hear about Ian and Jen Hall's 27-year journey to make a success of a Lakeland hill farm. As we set out from the handsome farmhouse at Fisherground – one-time home to the couple, alongside close friends Anne-Marie and Geoff Wake – we learn about the passion that drove both couples (plus family and other animals) onto the farm, and the highs and lows of living the farming dream. Reflecting as we walk on divers matters – from gate stoups to Herdwick rudd; from bathing in the Esk to the thrill of hound trailing – we reach St Catherine's Church, where Ian preached for many years, to reflect on the trauma of Foot & Mouth, making peace with tourism and the brilliantly named, but mechanically flawed, 'Hayter Potatovator'.

• You can buy Ian's book Fisherground: Living the Dream and other titles from bookscumbria.com/?s=ian+hall&post_type=product and all good local bookshops.

Countrystride #103: Ambleside - A town through time

...in which we take a tour of honeypot Ambleside in the company of Blue Badge guide, and lover of all things Ambleside, Alison Pickering. Setting out from Rothay Park, we visit the riverside Roman Fort, once a thriving settlement with strategic links throughout Cumbria, before making our way via the centuries-spanning milling powerhouse of Stock Ghyll into the centre of town to talk about its industrial transition from wool town to tourist mecca. As we wander, under pristine spring skies, we learn about the Roman gifts of damsons and apples; the battle to save Stock Ghyll Park; and the real purpose of diminutive Bridge House, before asking why the town's chapel was only in use for 43 years; and what a Victorian tourist would pack into their busy Lakeland tour.

• Alison Pickering can be found at cumbriatouristguides.org/guide/alison-pickering/
• She can also be found on Instagram at instagram.com/amblesidealison/

Countrystride #102: A Coast to Coast love affair, with Debbie North

...in which we travel east to the big-sky North York Moors to meet access campaigner and Cabinet Office disability ambassador Debbie North on a stretch of her beloved Coast to Coast walk. Setting out in springtime squalls from The Lion Inn at Blakey – infamous stopping point on Wainwright's enduringly popular cross-country journey – we learn from Debs about the outdoors childhood that forged her connection with wild places, before following her life-changing journey from St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay during which she fell in love not only with the north country, but also with travel companion (and colleague) Andy North. Recalling the loss of her mobility and the dark days that followed, Debs describes the first ever Coast to Coast crossing made in a wheelchair; recollects her doomed attempts to reconnect with nature using didgeridoos; and tells us why she isn't calling for Stannah Stairlifts to be installed on Scafell Pike.

• You can find out more about Debs at debbienorth.org and on Twitter at twitter.com/DebbieNorth29
• You can find out more about Access the Dales, Debs' charity. here.

Countrystride #101: The Yellow Earl and Lowther Castle

...in which we visit one of Lakeland's great historic houses, Lowther Castle, to explore the history of the 'Yellow Earl': Hugh Lowther, 5th Earl of Lonsdale, one of the most extravagant members of the English aristocracy. In the company of Charlotte Fairbairn, seanchaidh of the Lowther family, we rewind in time to the early days of the Lowther dynasty – to the growth of the Whitehaven coalfields and the tyrannies of 'Wicked Jimmy' – to set the scene for Hugh's birth. Never intended to inherit the estate – 75,000 acres and wealth beyond dreams – the young Earl embarked upon a life of opulence and hedonism, spending vast sums and pretty much squandering the family fortune. As we trace the story of a remarkable life – of the Earl's love of animals; of his extra-marital activities; of his temporary banishment to the Arctic; of his hunts with the Kaiser – we ask what kind of man he was; why his grave is so modest; and... why yellow? Finally we consider the Earl's legacy – that stretches from boxing rules to Arsenal FC's away strip and the AA's livery.

• The Ten Thousand Daffodils installation is running at Lowther Castle until 24 June.
• To visit Lowther Castle and its exhibits see lowthercastle.org
• You can find Charlotte at her website here.
• Charlotte is giving a talk about the Yellow Earl at the Farmers’ Arms on 10 May.

Countrystride #100: Why we love the Lakes

...in which we celebrate our 100th birthday with an ascent of Grasmere's favourite fell, Helm Crag, to consider the question: "What is the unique magic of the Lake District?" In the company of Little Langdale cragsman and author Bill Birkett, poet Harriet Fraser, photographer Rob Fraser and – sharing our birthday – 90-year-old Gordon Bambrough, we enjoy blue skies as we climb steadily to The Lion and the Lamb's rocky top. As we walk, we explore our own relationships with Cumbria, how each of us fell in love with north-country landscapes, and what the fells mean to us. As we rove, we are joined by dozens of Lakes-lovers who answer the same enduring question: "What is the magic of Lakeland for you?" before picking a piece of poetry or prose that articulates the magic for them.

• Our readers for the episode – with many thanks – are the brilliant Sue Allan and Jonathan Humble.
• Emily Hasler's poem 'Grasmere Lake' is taken from The Built Environment and is published by Pavilion Poetry at Liverpool University Press.
• With thanks to all of our many contributors to this episode: you're all stars :-)