Countrystride

Countrystride #107: Tales from Little Langdale

...in which we stride out from Fell Foot Farm at the foot of Wrynose Pass to explore the upper reaches of Little Langdale with National Trust Archaeologist Jamie Lund. Opening with a brief history of the valley, we consider its strategic importance in the heart of the Lakes, and the historic route – used by the Romans onwards – that draws down to Fell Foot, a one-time inn. Noting the remarkable Norse 'Ting Mound' behind the farm, we learn about the enclosed dale-bottom common, so valuable that it was never built upon. Passing the beck – canalised in medieval times then re-channelled in the 1800s – we ascend Greenburn to one of the UK's best preserved relic copper mines, where we talk prospecting, pollution and power. Hearing about the 'Nick Stick Seat' – where rural workers sat for a day's labour – we close by reflecting on the future of a remarkable valley.

Countrystride #106: The lichens of Borrowdale

...in which we take a deep dive into the miniature world of lichens with Cumbria Lichens & Bryophytes expert Pete Martin. Embarking from the car park at Seatoller – and not wandering much further - we ask what a lichen is (a question not easily answered) and why lichens matter. Wandering up-dale towards Seathwaite, we stop at trees and walls to encounter five of the county's most recognisable lichens and observe a remarkable world of elf ears, maps, jam tarts and wine gums. Deep in the Borrowdale rainforest we consider the expansive 'second skin' lichen and bryophyte ecosystems that form on older pollarded trees, and the key role lichens play in fixing both carbon and nitrogen. Taking a long view of land use in the valley, our journey ends at the famous Borrowdale Yews, where we learn why Wordsworth's 'Fraternal Four' were never four at all, and why, in ecology, things are often more complex than they first seem.

• You can find Pete on Twitter twitter.com/onLoughrigg
• The Cumbria Lichen & Bryophyte Group can be found at bumbrialichensbryophytes.org.uk

Countrystride #105: The Old Man and the slate

...in which we are joined by industrial archeologist supremo Mark Hatton to talk all things slate as we ascend and then tunnel deep into the fellside of The Old Man of Coniston. Picking through the abandoned remains of old working floors and tips, we learn about the long history of slate quarrying in the Lake District – an industry spread over 200 sites that yielded a range of highly-prized stone. Discussing how slate is formed, we make our way to the powerhouse, smithy and working floor of the Old Man workings, where millions of tonnes of stone were shaped into prized roofing slate by generations of miners. As we wander, we hear about the likely Norman origins of the industry; the revolution wrought by compressed air; the perils of journeying home in the snow; and the Sunday-morning miracles that collapsed caverns – and saved lives.

 

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It would be remiss not to note that we recorded underground in the company of an experienced guide, and kitted with helmets and torches. Exploring these workings is immensely enjoyable - in the right company and with the right kit. In all cases, leave the workings as you found them. ***

Countrystride #104: Eskdale - Living the Fisherground dream

..in which we don the Countrystride shorts for a balmy trip west into sylvan Eskdale to hear about Ian and Jen Hall's 27-year journey to make a success of a Lakeland hill farm. As we set out from the handsome farmhouse at Fisherground – one-time home to the couple, alongside close friends Anne-Marie and Geoff Wake – we learn about the passion that drove both couples (plus family and other animals) onto the farm, and the highs and lows of living the farming dream. Reflecting as we walk on divers matters – from gate stoups to Herdwick rudd; from bathing in the Esk to the thrill of hound trailing – we reach St Catherine's Church, where Ian preached for many years, to reflect on the trauma of Foot & Mouth, making peace with tourism and the brilliantly named, but mechanically flawed, 'Hayter Potatovator'.

• You can buy Ian's book Fisherground: Living the Dream and other titles from bookscumbria.com/?s=ian+hall&post_type=product and all good local bookshops.

Countrystride #103: Ambleside - A town through time

...in which we take a tour of honeypot Ambleside in the company of Blue Badge guide, and lover of all things Ambleside, Alison Pickering. Setting out from Rothay Park, we visit the riverside Roman Fort, once a thriving settlement with strategic links throughout Cumbria, before making our way via the centuries-spanning milling powerhouse of Stock Ghyll into the centre of town to talk about its industrial transition from wool town to tourist mecca. As we wander, under pristine spring skies, we learn about the Roman gifts of damsons and apples; the battle to save Stock Ghyll Park; and the real purpose of diminutive Bridge House, before asking why the town's chapel was only in use for 43 years; and what a Victorian tourist would pack into their busy Lakeland tour.

• Alison Pickering can be found at cumbriatouristguides.org/guide/alison-pickering/
• She can also be found on Instagram at instagram.com/amblesidealison/

Countrystride #102: A Coast to Coast love affair, with Debbie North

...in which we travel east to the big-sky North York Moors to meet access campaigner and Cabinet Office disability ambassador Debbie North on a stretch of her beloved Coast to Coast walk. Setting out in springtime squalls from The Lion Inn at Blakey – infamous stopping point on Wainwright's enduringly popular cross-country journey – we learn from Debs about the outdoors childhood that forged her connection with wild places, before following her life-changing journey from St Bees to Robin Hood's Bay during which she fell in love not only with the north country, but also with travel companion (and colleague) Andy North. Recalling the loss of her mobility and the dark days that followed, Debs describes the first ever Coast to Coast crossing made in a wheelchair; recollects her doomed attempts to reconnect with nature using didgeridoos; and tells us why she isn't calling for Stannah Stairlifts to be installed on Scafell Pike.

• You can find out more about Debs at debbienorth.org and on Twitter at twitter.com/DebbieNorth29
• You can find out more about Access the Dales, Debs' charity. here.

Countrystride #101: The Yellow Earl and Lowther Castle

...in which we visit one of Lakeland's great historic houses, Lowther Castle, to explore the history of the 'Yellow Earl': Hugh Lowther, 5th Earl of Lonsdale, one of the most extravagant members of the English aristocracy. In the company of Charlotte Fairbairn, seanchaidh of the Lowther family, we rewind in time to the early days of the Lowther dynasty – to the growth of the Whitehaven coalfields and the tyrannies of 'Wicked Jimmy' – to set the scene for Hugh's birth. Never intended to inherit the estate – 75,000 acres and wealth beyond dreams – the young Earl embarked upon a life of opulence and hedonism, spending vast sums and pretty much squandering the family fortune. As we trace the story of a remarkable life – of the Earl's love of animals; of his extra-marital activities; of his temporary banishment to the Arctic; of his hunts with the Kaiser – we ask what kind of man he was; why his grave is so modest; and... why yellow? Finally we consider the Earl's legacy – that stretches from boxing rules to Arsenal FC's away strip and the AA's livery.

• The Ten Thousand Daffodils installation is running at Lowther Castle until 24 June.
• To visit Lowther Castle and its exhibits see lowthercastle.org
• You can find Charlotte at her website here.
• Charlotte is giving a talk about the Yellow Earl at the Farmers’ Arms on 10 May.

Countrystride #100: Why we love the Lakes

...in which we celebrate our 100th birthday with an ascent of Grasmere's favourite fell, Helm Crag, to consider the question: "What is the unique magic of the Lake District?" In the company of Little Langdale cragsman and author Bill Birkett, poet Harriet Fraser, photographer Rob Fraser and – sharing our birthday – 90-year-old Gordon Bambrough, we enjoy blue skies as we climb steadily to The Lion and the Lamb's rocky top. As we walk, we explore our own relationships with Cumbria, how each of us fell in love with north-country landscapes, and what the fells mean to us. As we rove, we are joined by dozens of Lakes-lovers who answer the same enduring question: "What is the magic of Lakeland for you?" before picking a piece of poetry or prose that articulates the magic for them.

• Our readers for the episode – with many thanks – are the brilliant Sue Allan and Jonathan Humble.
• Emily Hasler's poem 'Grasmere Lake' is taken from The Built Environment and is published by Pavilion Poetry at Liverpool University Press.
• With thanks to all of our many contributors to this episode: you're all stars :-)

Countrystride #99: PEAT, POWER & THE PUBLIC – Caring for Watendlath

...in which we explore the much-loved hanging valley of Watendlath and the High Tove ridge above in the company of veteran National Trust ranger Roy Henderson and Cumbria Wildlife Trust's Sean Prokopiw. Posing the question: 'How do we balance the management of such precious landscapes with increasing tourist demands?', we take a whistle-stop tour of projects that are building resilience into the fells, woodlands and communities around the isolated dale head. After a brief history of the valley – from glaciation through Norse settlement to the busy days of the pack-horse trains – we visit a remarkable pollarded ash tree. Heading downstream, we are introduced to one of three hydro schemes in Borrowdale, which collectively generate enough energy to power virtually the whole valley. Passing newly-planted hillsides on an age-old pitched way, we emerge at the Pewits, once a desolation of peat hags, now a thriving upland bog, to learn about the value of these remarkable upland habitats.

Countrystride #98: Askham – A vernacular celebration

...in which we take a wintry trip to Lowther country and the pristine village of Askham to celebrate the built heritage of Cumbria. In the company of historic buildings officer Alexandra Fairclough, we take a long view of the vernacular and its champions – from John Ruskin to Professor Ron Brunskill – before embarking on a whistlestop tour of a village that was neither formally designed, like Lowther, nor set upon a springline, like nearby Helton. As we wander, we consider the link between geology and buildings, we note the features of a typical Cumbrian farmhouse, we consider the concept of 'polite' architecture, and we ask whether Cumbrian's historic buildings are in safe hands.

 

• Alexandra can be found at https://linktr.ee/Alexatourguide

 

Countrystride #97: Townend – A Troutbeck farming dynasty

...in which we descend upon the cloistered valley of Troutbeck to celebrate the 75th birthday of the National Trust farm at Townend, home for 12 generations to the 'yeoman' Browne family. In the company of Collections & House Manager Emma Wright we uncover a trove of farmhouse treasures, including an expansive 'meat loft', the last George Browne's remarkable wood carvings and Elizabeth Birkett's 1699 'commonplace book' of recipes and unlikely ailment cures. Accessing the house's nationally-important library, we paint a picture of a leisured family in pursuit of wealth and influence, and Mark gets enthused by a copy of 'Gate's Shepherds Guide'. Rambling past the farm's expansive bank barn – one of the finest in Westmorland – we learn about the characteristic pattern of 'outgang' lanes that allowed stock to be driven onto the communal Wansfell 'hundreds' before turning our attention to Beatrix Potter and the last days of the Browne dynasty.

• You can find out more about Townend at www.nationaltrust.org.uk/visit/lake-district/townend